The overlooked masterpiece next door to Casa Batlló — a Gothic-Dutch-Modernista fantasy by Josep Puig i Cadafalch that houses a world-class chocolate café and charges far less for a visit.
On the famous stretch of Passeig de Gràcia known as the Block of Discord — where three of the greatest Modernista buildings in the world stand side by side — all the attention goes to Casa Batlló. Gaudí's iridescent dragon-backed building is extraordinary, and justifiably so. But the building immediately to its left, Casa Amatller, is something very special in its own right, attracts a fraction of the visitors, and costs significantly less to enter.
Casa Amatller was completed in 1900 by Josep Puig i Cadafalch — not a name most visitors recognise, but a Modernista architect of genuine brilliance who deserves far more attention than he gets. The facade is a confident, eccentric composition that mixes Dutch stepped gables with Gothic tracery, Moorish geometric tiles, and Catalan Modernista decoration. The stepped roofline is partly inspired by Belgian and Dutch guild houses from Puig i Cadafalch's travels in northern Europe, filtered through a decidedly Catalan sensibility. It is arresting, strange, and deeply impressive.
The building was commissioned by Antoni Amatller, a wealthy Barcelona chocolate manufacturer and avid photographer, and the interiors reflect his personality: the entrance hall has a dramatic Gothic staircase, the ceiling is coffered and gilded, and original photographic equipment is displayed alongside Amatller's chocolate memorabilia. Guided tours take you through the private apartments with their original Art Nouveau furniture and fittings still in place.
The ground floor is occupied by Faborit Casa Amatller, a charming café serving Amatller's house chocolate in every form imaginable — hot chocolate with churros, chocolate mousse, pralines, drinking chocolate made with the original recipes. Even if you're not doing the full tour, sitting here with a cup of hot chocolate and looking out at the Passeig de Gràcia through the Gothic arched windows is one of the simple pleasures of Barcelona. Admission to the building's main hall and ground floor is free.
💡 Insider Tips
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The ground floor café is free to enter — worth it for the hot chocolate alone
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Book a guided tour to see the private apartments with original Art Nouveau furnishings
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The block makes most sense visited as a trio: Casa Amatller, Casa Batlló, and Casa Lleó Morera all within 100m
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Less crowded than Casa Batlló — often you can photograph the facade without a crowd
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Evening exterior illumination is excellent — the ceramic tiles and gable are beautifully lit
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Free admission to the entrance hall — give yourself 20 minutes even without a tour ticket
More to See in Eixample
architectureLa Pedrera – Casa Milà
Gaudí's last civil building — a rippling stone apartment block on Passeig de Gràcia.
architectureCasa Batlló
Gaudí’s dreamlike masterpiece of color, curves, and light — one of Barcelona’s most iconic Modernist buildings.
architectureHospital de Sant Pau
The most underrated Modernista masterpiece in Barcelona — a UNESCO World Heritage Site of breathtaking beauty that most visitors walk straight past on their way to the Sagrada Família.